A few weeks ago I went to Khartoum for the first time, as part of a delegation from the House of Lords on the invitation of the University of Khartoum to attend their peace and reconciliation conference. For me, this was to be no ordinary trip, but an exciting and often moving return to the land my great grandfather left, or to be accurate, was taken, in the most violent of circumstances around a hundred and fifty years ago.
I went with some apprehension, having received briefings from many colleagues who had travelled there many times, and seen the results of decades of war, destruction and conflict. What I hadn’t heard very much about was the Sudanese people. I was greeted like a long lost family member, by men and women who showed enormous generosity. I was struck by the friendliness dignity and kindness, of the local population and hospitality, despite significant poverty.
An article had appeared in the Sudanese media soon after my maiden speech back in July 2010, where as customary, I referred to my family history, explaining how my great- grandfather, Abdullah, was taken to Cyprus as a young man by slave traders during the Ottoman period, and sold to a Cypriot merchant. He was eventually allowed his freedom and married a Turkish woman. Today, there are still thousands of Turkish-Cypriot and people in Turkey, from African descent. A legacy of their ancestors being taken during the 19th century. Little research or documentation exists about our history.
Arriving on a Friday, we visited the impressive Ottoman- style Nur Mosque, where I was invited to join the women for Friday prayers. The Imam announced that there were visitors from the UK amongst the congregation, and after prayers, the women moved to surround and warmly welcome and embrace us.
I met students, young women, children, and many impressive women MPs – North Sudan has 96, a higher proportion than the UK, many from professional backgrounds.
The legacy of the Ottomans is still evident in aspects of the Arabic language, culture, and particularly their food, which was familiar to me as the Turkish dishes I have grown up with.
I learnt for example that Khartoum, is said to derive its name from the thin spit of land at the convergence of the Nile rivers, which resembles an elephant’s trunk (khurtum). This is also the same word in Turkish.
Khartoum is not representative of the rest of Sudan, and a lot safer, but I, like most woman who have been hassled, stared at and followed in many other countries, was pleasantly surprised that there was no evidence of this. I felt reasonably safe. Women drive around independently, unlike some Arab countries.
At the hotel where we stayed, I enjoyed witnessing large family groups of Egyptian-Sudanese Coptic Christians from North Sudan, arriving to celebrate their Orthodox Easter holiday in Khartoum, including women in short skirts without head scarves.
Khartoum is a very diverse city, where refugees fleeing war from Chad, Ethiopia and other neighboring countries have flocked in the past few decades and there is much poverty.
In July 2011, the Sudanese government signed a peace deal for Darfur. But implementation of these agreements have been slow and conflicts continue affecting millions of people across the country. All of us who care deeply about this important nation, want to see reducing conflict and promoting long-term peace in Sudan, as a priority. But despite the South becoming an independent nation, conflict between the two new nations continues, and in particular, tribal conflict continue. The UK is working with affected parties towards a sustainable solution in Darfur, the East, Abyei, Blue Nile and Southern Kordofan. This is core to preventing conflict in these fragile states.
It will take time for good governance to be developed. It is important the UK government continues working with the Sudanese government, political parties, civil society and human rights groups, to one day bring lasting peace and prosperity.
The most frequent question I was asked was “where was your great- grandfather from?” I only know he was from the Nubian region in the North, and kidnapped while playing by the River Nile. I took photos of my family, who were so alike the people I saw there. I have now begun researching my family history, and hope one day to find relatives who know the other side of the story.
Thank you, for an interesting and captivating oeuvre, including as it were granary and government levels, as well as ‘grass-roots’ situations (which do need our as-it-were ‘neighbourly’ help to keep watered).
If I may ‘pick’ upon a detail (in para 11)
against what criteria for “importance” of a people (your word “nation”) do you figure Sudan ?
And in what divisions if any: North & South, just North, or just South ?
Because a little further on you perhaps intimate that the governance
(the “states” rather than the “nation” qua “peoples”) is “fragile” (?).
———–
Certainly your survival and at times “thrival” story shows the people to be both hardy (despite almost barren environments) and charitable (despite a long history of privations, neglects and veritable persecutions);
to my mind little if any of which is truly served by the UN HDI (Aggregate Human Development Index):
which in turn to my mind also gravely lacks an effective Individual Human Development model and index).
My memory of history regarding this part of the planet revolves around General Gordon and his escapades in that area. He did not fare well.
Therefore, different cultures are often extremely difficult for us Brits to fathom. And from my point of view, we should leave each individual state to run its own affairs and decide what is good for its own future and the people of the region in question.
We live in a world that has access to all our curiosity and intellectual requirements. If the Sudan needs instruction on how to make its way in the modern world and ‘change’ its way of life from poverty to wealth, it can do so without the tax payers of the UK’s assistance. For they do not take easily to outside interference and often reject violently those who wish them well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlvJznNXdto
After which then they cut off his head and stuck on top of a pole for all to see. So, trying to assist those whom we do not understand can lead to very sticky endings.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/gordon_general_charles.shtml
@milesjsd Thank you for your interest and considered comments. I was referring to the new state of South Sudan, as a fragile state. As well as areas such as Kordofan. I take your point about the UN HDI and their often simplistic and often linear assessment. My own background is testament to the the resilience of people, but we live in a shrinking world and era where we have a duty to support and invest in developing countries emerging from long periods of conflict and war.
Thank you baroness for a very sensitive and warmly expressed piece.
A relevant point is the declaration of the coalition government in the UK that there are no British sanctions against the Sudan.Trade not aid is what we ask for,plus debt cancellation on which the UKs position is also quite positive.
@Khalid AlMubarak:
Just in case you missed it, the UK and the entire Western world, have governments telling them that it is us who is in need debt cancellation. Owing to the profligate spending of our wealth on asset draining pursuits.
And, as we are the frontiersmen of the planets wealth, I think people outside of that sphere should take note, ‘killing the golden goose’ will not enable any of them to witness the laying of their golden eggs.
How about worrying what ‘we’ will be able to provide for ‘our’ nations people. That is the first duty of a democratic government. You see, our people along with those who come here for solace are also going without and some are starving.
Charity begins at home. We have a duty to those here before anyone else.
@Khalid AlMubarak Thank you for your commments. Yes, it is welcome that the British have not followed the US in imposing sanctions. And I completely agree about the enormous need for greater trade and investment.
I came across this line and thought here would be a good place to add it.
It rings so loudly and could be judged a crime against humanity.
‘The poorest in rich countries pay for the richest in poor countries.’
Now is not the time for recrimination dear Ms Maude Elwes.After the reconquest of our country the grave of the Mahdi was desecrated resulting in a reprimand from British Cairo HQ.
As far as debt is concerned.It is unfair to us.
The real amount is little.The rest is interest.The debt was the error of a dictator,Numairy who was overthrown by us.
@Khalid AlMubarak:
I refer you to the reply I gave above to Baroness Hussein-Ece, along with this added link.
http://www.standard.co.uk/news/dispossessed/in-2012-thousands-of-children-are-starving-on-the-streets-of-london-7621114.html
A duty any government has in a democracy is to care for the people it represents. A democracy, as I am sure you are very familiar with, is ruled by the people through representation. If all goes to plan that is.
And with regard to recrimination. I respect your turn of phrase, but, am not following your gist. It is all too late for that, if you are referring to my General Gordon reference. Recalling history and its experience is simply taking on board the message of its outcome.
We learn by our past experiences, or, should do. Not always followed by our rulers.
Maude Elves: That is simply not the case. Our 0.7% aid, is transforming lives of women and children, from disease, and poverty, and making a difference. We have a responsibility to help others in the world.
@Baroness H-E:
First of all, why do you feel our country, and you being part of its government, although unelected and therefore not representative, should put others before its own people? Who gave you that notion?
Have you not kept in touch with what we are told through our journalists and the governments own press briefings, advising we are broke? Yes, completely broke. ‘No money left’ was the note. So why would you feel we should put others before our own? Would you put others before your family if you were on the breadline. I don’t think so.
And you know as well as I do that the Aid sent out from here, either stays in the pockets of those who run it, or, is reduced to pennies in comparison to what is given. Meaning we are taken to the cleaners and have been for decades.
Not one government official in our country is voted in to assist the rest of the planet before it has seen ‘all’ who belong to this nation taken care of. And those who are ‘appointed’ to positions of power, should be patriots of this people before they finger with the tax payers of ‘this’ country’s purse.
You want to raise cash for the rest of the world as a priority to our own, then get up and take yourself out to all those you have access to directly and work on making the cash for your main interests within that sphere. Which clearly is not for the people of the UK. And whilst you are at it, donate your ‘British’ tax payer £300 a day, along with its ample expenses to do so.
In other words, take your eyes off what is not yours to gift. We cannot ‘feed the world’ they have to feed themselves, as what we have to offer is, to use Miles favorite word, unsustainable. Especially in these austere times. Therefore it is in all nations interests to take up the cudgel on their own behalf and not rely on others, who will demand a price that the people of that outside nation is not willing to pay.